
List Price: $99.99
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I bought this for my wife to display a new cookware set and assorted pans in the kitchen above the island. The rack is simple, has clean looking lines, is now itself very heavy, and is very easy to assemble and hang. The only concern I have is that it can only hold up to 40 pounds, so I doubled the chain (the rack comes with 4 chain lengths, about 2 ft long each) to reinforce it. I recommend you either do this or buy new chain, the one that comes with it is adequate, but not the best. It looks great and really shows off the cookware, as well as spices up the kitchen. For the price, this is a good choice.
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I shopped for a couple of weeks before deciding on this rack. It is just what I wanted and much cheaper than a comparable rack from other sources. It installed easily and we put it to immediate use! It is very good looking, very functional.Best Deals for Range Kleen Oval Pot Rack
I've had this a few weeks. It seems well made and likely to last for many years. It's convenient to have cookware up where I can see and grab it without stooping and rummaging in cabinets. There are no curliques or flat surfaces to collect tons of dust, which makes it a good functional design. It holds just the right number of items for my casual cooking style: a colander, a wok, 3 sizes of skillets, 3 saucepans, a saute pan, a stock pot and a couple of lids. There is room on the top for seldom used items, but I'd have to be taller to make much use of that area.Honest reviews on Range Kleen Oval Pot Rack
This is a very well made pot rack. The material is substantial but not overweight. Also it is a good, real stainless. It is NOT that cheap metallic plating that is impossible to keep clean and chips away, leaving dark spots, and prone to waterspots that are hard to polish out.This frees up a HUGE amount of storage. Pots, pans, and lids take up a tremendous amount of cabinet space. Now we have room for more of our ridiculous number of kitchen gadgets! :)
Don't put this over your stove. You will get grease up onto your pots, pans, lids, and the rack itself. You can often see a greasy dust on over-the-range microwaves and even ceilings above stoves / ranges. As you use your pots/pans the grease will burn on and this pot rack will turn into an eyesore rack.
I can't blame the pot rack, but I had a tough time learning how to install it so I wanted to write up what I learned all in one place so others would have a tried-and-true reference. Come back and check this review if you end up having trouble, too... or read on to avoid trouble. The short version is that there is an easy way to install it once you know the details. I apologize for these details being lengthy:
I have a textured ceiling from a house that was made in that mid-90's and I did not trust butterfly bolts or anchors to fully support the weight (though I ended up using a couple anyway). I tried using a studfinder to locate ceiling joists but I could not get it to consistently indicate any locations to expect a solid anchor. After some internet research I discovered reasons a studfinder won't work on a ceiling like this and my problem was VERY common so hopefully sharing my experience will be Helpful.
After the studfinder I tried the knocking method, where you give a little thump with your finger along an area and listen for where it sounds hollow vs there being something solid there. That didn't work for me either (which is also common for textured ceilings).
Another option is to make thin holes into your room from the attic on either side of a joist so you know it is between those holes. But there is no access over our kitchen (short of tearing off the roof) so this wasn't a viable option.
What I ended up doing, and this was not NEARLY as much work as it sounds like (I anticipated more time/problems than reality), was using a nail (make sure it's a couple inches long and thinner is better) and some trial-and-error. First dull the tip so it can't poke through wires etc. I picked a spot and tapped the nail in. When it easily went all the way in I pulled it out (with pliers, don't put your claw hammer on your ceiling), moved over one inch, then tried again. You will know it's a joist when it stops moving forward after a few taps. If you think you find a joist on your first try move over 3-4 inches and make another hole to be sure you're not meeting normal ceiling resistance. It took me 16 holes to find a joist. Usually joists will be either 12, 18, or 24 inches apart. I was already well past 12 inches so I tested 18" over and then 24" over from the 1st joist which is where mine ended up being. Make sure you find both edges of the joist by the way so you can screw into the center. Find the edge(s) by moving over 1/2" or so figuring your joist is 1-1/2" wide.
Another tip: Joists usually run from the front of the house to the back (usually parallel to the shorter side of the room) so when you are checking for joists move along the long side of the room (probably side to side). If you have a vaulted or cathedral ceiling the joists are almost definitely slanted up/down along the slope.
Back to the holes though, you're probably thinking at this point, "So this genius is telling me to put about 20 holes in my ceiling to install this? No way!" What's amazing though is a dab of spackle (or toothpaste if you don't have spackle) and the hole *completely* disappears. It is not like spackling a wall where the texture appears different. I asked my wife if she thought they looked OK from the floor before I got down and she said even knowing where to look she couldn't find them. Plus it's surprisingly fastyou can test 20 areas (1 inch apart) with a thin nail in 5-10 minutes, easy, and in another 5-10 minutes the excess holes will all be gone. I wish I had just used this nail method first.
Realize now you have located all your joists. Sure you only have 2 of them marked, but knowing where they are and how far apart they are lets you just measure over that same distance from either joist and you can be confident there will be another. In other words, ALL the joists will be evenly spaced (again probably 12, 18, or 24 inches).
Ideally your joists happen to fall such that there are 2 you want the pot rack to hang between. It's okay (even good) to have the chains hang at a diagonal as long as they connect to the ceiling further apart than the pot rack is wide. If instead the chains come toward each other on the way to ceiling it will make the pot rack want to swing!
Hopefully this is the end of the story for your ceiling hooks... but for me, it wasn't. Because our joists are 24" apart we had fewer placement options and ended up only being able to use a joist for one side of the rack and having to suspend it from the drywall ceiling on the other side (luckily the lighter-loaded side). The instructions recommended toggle bolts but I HATE toggle bolts. They require massive holes and the corners of the bolts damage the drywall which creates a point for tearing out to start which is NOT something I wanted to deal with on a pot rack. So I talked to the guy at my local big box home improvement store and found a plastic anchor that butterflies open. So I still had to drill a good size hole but the anchor filled most of it. Once the anchor was flush with the ceiling I turned the hook in which opened up the plastic "butterflying" which would support the weight. UNfortunately, the anchor was made for a thicker wall than the thin ceiling. What I did to avoid tear out was to CAREFULLY pull (not yank) the anchor by the screwed-in pot rack hook until the supports were against the ceiling and I could pull no further. Of course this left a small amount of anchor exposed (easily touched up with white paint, mask the stainless hook though!). Why pull the anchor out as far as possible? Because otherwise when your pot rack is being loaded the side of the anchor will give way and it will SLAM down that 1/4 to 1/2 inch and scare the crap out of you and/or it actually will tear the anchor out of the ceiling because of the slamming force. Setting it up gently on your terms will let it operate at full strength (and stay level). That little exposed part of anchor is visible from the ground if you look for it, but with a dab of white paint it is not very noticeable.
Once your ceiling hooks are in things are easy. Hang the chains from them. Put the hooks on the rack. It's easiest to have one person hold the rack up while another person puts the chains through the rack's hooks but if you have to do it yourself start with the side hanging from a joist and don't worry about the pot rack being level until you get to the 3rd hook.
I know this is long but hopefully this is Helpful in guiding you through your install process! Leave any questions in the comments and I will answer it to the best of my ability!


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